My Running List
Bandai 1/12 C-3P0
Bandai 1/12 First Order Stormtrooper
Bandai 1/12 R2-D2 & R5-D4 (with R2-KT custom)
Bandai 1/12 Darth Vader
Bandai 1/12 Sandtrooper
Bandai 1/12 Captain Phasma
Bandai 1/12 Kylo Ren
Hello All! :canada:
2015 was a great year for Star Wars action figure fans, but for me it was the introduction to a new, cool pastime of mine, kit building. Never in a million years did I think it would be fun, relaxing and in some cases be more satisfying than collecting the Hasbro Black Series line. These sets are extremely movie accurate and very detailed. But not many collectors know about them.
I have purchased almost every 1/12th scale (6") Bandai Star Wars figure kit so far and I wanted to document them and show some of my paint work and maybe answer any questions you might have about the sets. Please feel free to post your own Star Wars Bandai kit pics and thoughts as well.
I also wanted this to be a place we can share tips and tricks and our reviews for those that might be on the fence for purchasing any of the kits. So here we go...
What are Bandai kits?
They are plastic models that you build piece by piece. The parts are still on the racks straight from the factory mould which need to be cut off and trimmed. You assemble the kit by simply snapping the pieces together as indicated in the instructions sheet. No glue is required. Each set includes a sticker sheet (green background) and a water decal equivalent (blue background). Of the two, I prefer the water decals. Less noticeable. But actually my preference is to paint the detailing whenever possible.
Bandai kits are not toys like the Black Series line. They are beautiful model display pieces that can pose extremely well due to their lighter weight and superarticulation. Rough play is not recommended.
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What tools do I need?
All you really need are...
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Small, angled flush cutters - this will allow you to cut as close as possible to the part so as to leave only minimal flash (
Here is the flush cutters I bought)...the flash can then be carefully removed with...
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X-Acto knife - a good one used for crafts serves well. I got mine from the dollar store and it came with a lots of extra blades and a rubberized grip.
I've never had the need for any other tools. These kits literally just snap together.
What if I break a piece?
Some Bandai pieces can be thin and fragile. I've broken my share. Here are some modeling adhesives that might help that I've used before.
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Painting
Painting is NOT necessary. But I do highly recommend it as it just takes the kits to another level of awesomeness. Painting seems intimidating but take it from me who has never had any experience painting a thing in my life. It's not that hard. It's actually quite relaxing and rewarding. If I can do it, anyone can.
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Painting prep procedure
Before painting you should always submerge your racks/parts in soapy water. I use dish soap and gently rub the parts with a soft bristle children's tooth brush to get in all the grooves. This will remove the mould release chemicals, allowing for better adhesion of the paint (and stickers/decals too). I was shocked how oily the parts are if not washed. Before painting some people will also apply a primer.
I always decant my paints in a separate paint tray that has 6 mixing wells. I got them from the dollar store. My decanting and mixing is very unscientific. I literally take Popsicle sticks and scoop out a bit at a time.
Make sure you mix up the paints first though. Cause the acrylic and paint naturally separate when sitting idle. I use wooden shrimp forks I found at the chinese grocery store lol Lately I've just been using the cocktail forks to decant the paints. I only decant what I need which is usually very little, like four drops at a time.
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Painting technique
My technique is not very sophisticated. I don't own an air brush set and I have zero previous experience. But I prefer to use Tamiya acrylic paints because they are normally self leveling and easy to work with.
I apply my paint with synthetic paint brushes. I prefer Taklon. They are golden/orange in colour, sometimes brown, very durable and have a natural feel to them while brushing. They are also cheap. Michaels has them, Walmart and dollar store too. I tried natural horse hair bristles and that was a terrible experience. Taklon brushes are available in varying sizes but make sure you get some extra fine tipped ones. A 20/0 brush works great for fine detailing.
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My Toothpick Technique
When dealing with smaller detailed parts sometimes it's hard not to apply excess paint. This is ok. Just gently scrape off excess with a toothpick once dry or something that won't scratch the surface. You don't have to be so precise when painting.
Helpful Painting Agents
Apply thin layers if you are concerned about unevenness. Add Tamiya X-20A acrylic paint thinner to help you achieve this. The thinner also contains a paint retardant, causing it to not dry out as fast. Just add one drop at a time as needed until the consistency is to your desire. You don't need much. I use a needle-less syringe I got with a prescription for my child's antibiotic. I like to use the thinner once the paint starts to dry out in the paint well or starts getting thicker. It's a good paint salvaging agent.
Tamiya paints come in three finishes, flat (denoted by "F" on the paint colour code, semi-gloss (written on label) or gloss (default). Tamiya X-21 Flat Base can be sparingly added to any Tamiya glossy paints to flatten out the finish too. But if you use too much, your paint will frost up like wet icing sugar and you will not see any colour. You literally only need one or two drops. Test it out before applying. Make sure to let it dry fully. It looks glossy at first but then it flattens out real nice. This is a handy trick if you don't want to get three different versions of the each of the main colours. The reverse can be done using Tamiya Clear Gloss if you want to add a little more sheen.
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What about weathering effects?
Many people create their own "washes" for that worn in look by just mixing a darker colour with water and then applying. There are also ready made products for this specific purpose. I like to use a thin coat of Tamiya Smoke X-19 mixed with X-21 Flat Base. This eliminates any reflection and really gives you a good effect (see
Boba Fett kit pics). Another option which I am going to be experimenting with are weathering kits and panel line markers and dyes. Tamiya and Gundam have a range of products.
Edit: I recently tried the Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color product
here and Weather Master kit
here and they are great. The panel line accent uses capillary action to spread the wash along the grooves. whatever is extra can be easily removed with lighter fluid and a Q-tip. The Weather Master kit is applied like make up.
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http://www.tamiya.com/english/produc...accent/top.jpg
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What if I really mess up?
If you mess up, just submerge your plastic model part in
this for a bit. The paint just lifts off. Rinse with warm water and you're back to normal and can start again. No risk really. Just don't use the "D" version (degreaser).
Simple Green is non-toxic, eco-friendly and does not irritate your skin. I have used it plenty of times. Available at Canadian Tire.
http://simplegreen.com/images/produc...0000113033.jpg
